Belgian-German artist Carsten Höller’s new restaurant Brutalisten in Stockholm reveals a new way of eating based on brutalism. At Brutalisten, all dishes are made with a minimum amount of ingredients and all plate decorations are avoided.
The restaurant, which came to life as the physical manifestation of Höller’s Brutalist Kitchen Manifesto, claims that breast milk has a brutalist structure and that all people are born brutalist. “I don’t despise elaborately cooked complex dishes made from a multitude of ingredients, but it seems to be what everybody is doing at the moment, piling up tons of stuff on a plate and layering ingredients horizontally,” says the artist Brutalisten, adding that their purpose in Brutalisten is to dig vertically into the taste of the food and clearing it of the background noise.
Meals at Brutalisten are prepared by chef Stefan Eriksson. Divided into three sections, the menu features ‘semi-brutalist’ dishes that allow the use of oil or minimal other ingredients, ‘brutalist’ dishes cooked with just water and salt, and ‘orthodox-brutalist’ dishes such as crab cooked in its own shell. The drinks menu includes a special Brutalist beer brewed only with grain malt and without hops, and a selection of brutalist non-alcoholic drinks made from fruits, algae, and mushrooms.